SA Site Cover: Of Mysticism and Transcending Love: Jamali Kamali Mosque, Delhi by Samiksha Purohit

The words of a rather contemporary namesake poet Shayar Jamali, somehow perfectly describes the gloomy conditions of the 16th century structure:
Samiksha Purohit is a Citizen
Archaeology Member at Speaking
Archaeologically since May 2019.


‘’
Shayad ab kuch kam ho jae mere ghar ki virani,
 Makdi jaale taan rahi hai ghar ke roshandaano mein’

The Jamali Kamali mosque stands in the middle of the Mehrauli Archaeological Park, New Delhi. Once a monument with greater glory than its adjacent standing Qutub Minar, is now a supposed haunted place and a safe keeper of the ‘love story’ between its name givers- Jamali and Kamali.
Sheikh Fazulla Jalali, or Jamali, a court poet during the reign of Babur, is said to have commissioned the mosque. While the identity of Jamali has a strong historicity attached to it, Kamali on the other hand remains a mystery. A contemporary poet, Jamali’s wife, his servant, his brother, a fictional name to rhyme with Jamali- the anecdotes are varied yet ambiguous. However, the most fantasised version is a homosexual lover, as put across boldly by Karen Chase in her book, Jamali-Kamali: A Tale of Passion in Mughal India.



Homosexuality was not unknown to medieval times. Whether it was Babur’s infamously professed love for a young boy in Baburnama, Humayun’s questioned masculinity against the alpha male, Kamran or Dara Shukoh’s alleged affair with a Hindu Boy- homosexuality was non punishable and attractions among younger boys was never seen as unnatural.



The Jamali-Kamali Mosque, Mehrauli, Delhi
The mosque is said to have laid the foundation of Mughal architecture in India, a perfect example of the Indo- Saracenic features. However, the glory of the past has been shadowed by the myths of today. Any article that reads, Top haunted places in Delhi, shall not have missed out on the Jamali Kamali mosque. The villagers of the nearby areas in Mehrauli claim to have experienced all sorts of paranormal activities in and around the mosque. Some even advise not to wear any scents while visiting the place, as the scents invite the jinns who live in a parallel world as humans. Muslim mythology states that humans are made of sand and jins are made of fire, who enter the human world and decide to stay in abandoned places, just like the mosque.

Nevertheless, on the contrary the abandonment of the mosque seems to be one of the reasons for its surrounding peace. Although, located in one of the busiest locations of Delhi, the beautiful structure is known to a few but sadly lacks maintenance and here, ignorance isn’t the right kind of bliss. 

The arches of the Jamali Kamali Mosque.
Arches were the defining feature of the Mughal
Architecture in India.
The monument is one of the 172 monuments under the jurisdiction of Delhi Archaeological Circle of the ASI that have been identified for restoration. Despite a total budget of Rupees 1.5 million allotted for its restoration,the monument continues to remain unattended. The entry to the cenotaph and tombs have now been permanently shut due to human misuse and transfer of valuable stones to nearby areas. This gem of a structure, like many other 'undiscovered' monuments has also fallen prey into the traps of civilisational greed, but like all great things manages to secure it's place in the memoirs with its unparalleled glory. 

The mosque stands as a testimony of love, time and unabashed monumental glory of the Mughals reminiscing the pride and aura of the medieval times. With fresh air, away from the hustle bustle of the city, close to nature and history Mehrauli Archaeological Park is a hidden treasure that awaits to be explored and given its due in facts and not myths.

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