Nehru's Abode and a Sultan's Sport: Kushak Mahal

Tucked in one corner of the Teen Murti Bhavan is the fourteenth century Kushak Mahal 

When I say "Teen Murti Bhavan", what are the familiar names, sights and sounds that comes in your mind? Jawaharlal Nehru, very obviously. And, a World War Memorial right on the main road? A palatial building, big lawns, plush greenery, NMML Building to the left; to the right, the Nehru Planetarium and gangs of school kids and picknicking families? Move on! Turn to your opposite side now! An absolute Hallelujah moment for medieval history buffs and heritage enthusiasts. 

Wait, what! Medieval history at Teen Murti Bhavan? After all, it's Delhi, my friend!

Here lies the self-proclaiming, self-evidently medieval building. And a Tughlaq one for that! Guess what, a hunting lodge built by Firuz Shah Tughlaq, a name famous among Dalrymple-fans and Djinn lovers of Delhi ! This is the Kushak Mahal, a late- fourteenth century Tughlaq period "shikargah" or hunting lodge. The Sultan's sport needed high-rising hunting lodges, comfortably nestled amidst bushes and trees, all ready for a perfect shot. Tughlaq period hunting lodges are found at the most unassuming places in Delhi. This one is no exception to that! 

A long flight of steps leads you straight into a flat-roofed courtyard, with vaults in the ceiling and arches amidst pillars. There is a inner chamber in the center,and two narrow passageways will lead you to open terraces on either side. These offer a pretty view of the extensive backyards of the main Teen Murti Bhavan building, and peacocks roaming abundantly in the thick bushes here and there. The serenity and calm of the place offers you a respite amidst the hustle and bustle of the fast-paced life in Delhi. Reminds you of the once rich ecology and wildlife of the Ridge Forest, a favourite of the Tughlaqs and a perfect spot for their favourite sport. Sometime later in the evening, probably a Sultan's camp will be set up here for the night. Sultans are generally pleasure-loving. So, rich draperies covering the bare stone here and there, and a cup or two of wine is not an unlikely accompaniment. 

The inner courtyard with terraces on either side, and beautiful arches in between pillars

The site stands pretty well-maintained, sans the usual ravages of time and tide, and the usual wear and tear. Also,of course, the walls hear do narrate the love-stories of the legendary scribes: Rahul, Priya, Raj and Simran! These are scribes and lovers we know from many other medieval and ancient sites from all over the subcontinent. There are no textual references to them anywhere, sadly !

But how on earth did this medieval hunting lodge survive inside the compound of the Teen Murti Bhavan, and yet manage to stay largely unnoticed? I didn't find a very satisfactory answer to that. Nehru Uncle's favourable disposition towards this Tughlaq shikargah is definitely a reason why Firuz Shah's camp site found a new home beside Nehru's abode. But isn't this the same Nehru who thought it fit to raze the remnants of a Tughlaq period tomb in Mandi House area, to build the New Delhi of is dreams? Maybe it wouldn't have been a very bad pastime for him to climb up the Kushak Mahal and spend some quiet hours. Great men with weird tastes. Not that it is anymore safe at the hands of the present dispensation,which is keeping no stone unturned in restructuring (read "demolishing") the face of Nehru's house. How long will this Kushak Mahal survive in the face of all of that? Will it find a secure place amidst the fast changing urban morphology and ecologies? Or will the rubble-stone masonry fall down before the mighty bulldozer, someday?

Will the fast changing ecologies around the site also obliterate the memories of this structure ?

Of one thing I am certain. As long as the road leading to the three broad-chested standing soldiers--the Teen Murti--is named "Kushak Road", the memory of this Mahal will also survive. But then, names are deceptive. Change it to something else, and you won the game! Or did you?