SA Culture Diaries: Diwali in the Hills by Shaurya Negi

Volunteer Shaurya Negi in Traditional
Himachali Attire

Hailing from the mountains of the Devbhoomi, or Himachal Pradesh as the world popularly knows it, I have been lucky enough to be a part of different festivals celebrated in different ways.Among these festivals is Deepawali. Despite the world moving at a fast pace, Himachal Pradesh has not forgotten its varied traditions when it comes to celebrating Deepawali. Districts like Kullu, Manali, Shimla, Mandi have had the most magnificent rituals involved in celebrating Diwali.

Looking at and growing up learning the different traditions,I've been able to gather the different colours and customs of celebrating Diwali in the upper areas of Shimla, the state capital and remarkably the most religiously significant city. Shimla popularly known for its tremendous history of Devi-Devtas has its own traditions especially found in upper areas like Kotkhai, Rohru, Jubbal, Balsan, Chopal, Theog and Kotgarh. Diwali is not only a festival for people from these areas but a way of bidding a goodbye to Autumn and welcoming Winter.

Temple of Goddess Lakshmi in Mahasu, Kotkhai, Shimla

In Kotkhai, which is about 50 kilometres from Shimla it is believed that Diwali marks the ending of Autumn and beginning of Winter.As the main occupation of the people from this area is farming and working as orchardists,growing apples, pineapples, cherries it is believed that winters are the most important season for them as the winters decide how well the crop will fare in the coming year. Moreover, Diwali also means welcoming Goddess Lakshmi into the houses, orchards and fields and thanking her for blessing the people with good health,crop and prosperity.

 The Diwali celebrations is for two days in particular. The day before the Diwali is called Naraka Chaturdashi or Choti Diwali. It is believed that Naraka was a demon and he was killed by second wife of Lord Krishna. Till today this day is celebrated in the upper areas of Shimla.On this day ladies wear Kajal in their eyes and also put a tilak on their forehead made of haldi and Chandan. On this day the head of the family visits the temple of any female goddess and offers food and money to seek blessings.

The next day is the day of Diwali. This begins with the female head of the family going to the shed of the cows and fetch fresh cow dung known as Gobbar and urine of the cow which is known as Gaunch. Both of these are believed to be pure and lucky.The matriarch of the house moulds the gobbar in square or a rectangular shape and puts it on the main door of the house.This symbolises that no evil spirit or evil force can enter the house now.Then with the reeds of grass tied with Mauli,  she sprinkles the Gaunch around the whole house in order to purify the entire house.This symbolises that the house is fresh now and away from negativity.

A typical Himachali Chulha

Following this unique ritualistic purification,  the members of the family prepare Kadhayi or Halwa made of flour.This is one of the most important tradition followed by the people of upper Himachalis.Kadhayi is cooked over Chulha or traditional mud oven, which uses small logs of wood for fuel.  Traditionally, Chulhas are used both for cooking and to keep warm during winters.

After the Kadhayi is ready a small offering is made to the Chulha as it is considered sacred as well as the messenger of the Agni, the Vedic Fire God.After this small ritual,  the rest of the family is served. During the day, people go to the temples of the local deities or the Devi-Devtas.Those of who observe a fast on the day do not eat anything till they visit the temple.

Another important aspect of celebrating Diwali in Kotkhai is that the Devi Devtas are worshipped in a very beautiful way. On this day, they are offered new cloth for their palanquin or Palki. They are offered food and are worshipped by the head priest. In some villages of Kotkhai, they are taken out of the temples to be visited by other villages who worship them. A great function is also held on Diwali.For example, in Guthan,a village in Theog from upper Shimla, one of the principle deity of Himachal Dom Devta visits the adjoining villages and is offered money and fruit. His palanquin is then swayed to the music, signifying the Dance of the Deity, as the music is played by titis who are chosen artists playing drums and Baja.

In the evening the whole villages are lighted up with Diyas. Food items like Siddu (baked flour), Lautey (sweet roti like food item made up by frying flour in ghee), Sidku (made up of flour moulded in three four layers and baked) and the pulse Baldi-Maash (a mixture of kidney beans with black lentil). Then the family members of a family hold a small prayer in the house and then what ever they offered to the God at the temples of their houses,is taken to the main ground known as the Chauhnra of the village and kept before the palanquin of the deities. The people dance together around it and sit and eat together and celebrate Diwali.

In the villages of Balsan and Kotkhai,  there is a place known as Badher which lies in the jungles of Balsan and Kotkhai and it is believed that  the Pandavas came to celebrate Diwali over there. Badher is important to these people and is visited around this time. It is said that if the area around Badher is dug up,Diyas or earthen lamps are found there.Whoever finds them is lucky  and these pieces are taken back home.

This is how a traditional Diwali is celebrated in the villages which fall in the laps of Himalayas!