The Baolis of Delhi: The Fellowship of the Baolis by Debyani Mukherjee (with edits by Medha Sharma and Simran Kaur Saini)

‘I asked my Soul, "What is Delhi?"

She replied, "The world is the body and Delhi is its life.’"

 – Mirza Ghalib

These lines by Mirza Ghalib beautifully summarize my love for Delhi and it's ruins that lay around the city. Though it looks like a small part of this world, its essence can make anyone fall in love with this city. It’s the charm that the historical sites exude, resplendent with various stories and cultural motifs, that make them all the more endearing. Trust me, historical sites,with a whiff of earthly smell and a dash of adventure, are replete in Delhi. Especially on the adventure part. Seriously. 

It is with this romanticism that I got out of my bed. On a Sunday morning that is. Alright before I get tagged as someone crazy for doing this, hear me out. We were supposed to cover the Baolis of Delhi, something that started as just a part of Simran’s research project but later, literaly became something more. Baolis, a.k.a. stepwells now defunct and forgotten. At first glance one might wonder, why baolis and why on a Sunday morning? Well, here in this account lie all the answers you seek!

So excited to cover a new site in a sense equalised my not so nice mood towards the biting cold of Delhi. We met at the metro station and hurriedly exchanged greetings, nudging each other to start walking. Forgive me but the cold made us all feel like cute little Olafs. 

The Baoli Gang (L to R): Medha, Debyani and Simran

So we marched (quite literally) to the Mehrauli Archaeological Park. Now now, the site cover would not be a site cover if the challenges were not present at the beginning. This leisurely walk culminated in us reaching to a place which didn't have a proper path and had visible yet invisible signages just like the Invisible Man (sorry but Wells cracked me up in that novel). However, jokes apart, the site was in a condition of despair. My heart sank when I saw this place,which was of opulence at one time to now reduce down to a place where one cannot even find a single soul.

 Simran, Medha and I managed to navigate our way while ensuring that we do not get lost and yes, not get attacked by pigs. The pigs certainly played a very crucial  role because these beings, unlike spider pig (who is friendly), stood their ground and were resolute to not let us pass through. We tried to find another way but finally a lone wolf you came from the opposite direction and that gave us the courage to rush our way through. Let’s just rest at the fact that the pigs in this park really bring the phrase, “May odds be ever in your favour” to life.

Having reached our desired destination, the Rajon Ki Baoli stood as a thing of beauty, abound with ornamentation and a splendid structure. 

                  Top View of Rajon ki Baoli

Built by Daulat Khan under Sikander Lodi in the 16th century, the baoli may still hold whispers of the story of its maker. Baolis not only served a utilitatrian function as a place for providing water but also proved a place for social and cultural blossoming. So maybe we were on a look out for those hidden stories as well, who knows what might surprise you. As we finally thought our ordeal was over and were mesmerised by how the baoli looked, the ecstasy did not last long. At the very first glimpse,  it looks like a pretty haveli, struggling to stand against the ravages of time.   However, the unmistakable presence of water, albeit a little stagnant, up to all the three storeys, soon dissolves that illusion. 

The baoli though restored, still has remnants of half hearted work of ASI. Even though there was a security personnel deployed there, that didn't stop the vandalism.

 As we saw the restored work, we soon realised to our despair that this restoration has led the west arches to be completely devoid of intricacies that were present on the east side of arched recesses. There was foul water in the baoli and steps leading down to the baoli and well was filled with garbage.To my surprise, I found that even the well on the rooftop was found filled with rubbish. Also a special mention goes to the stray dogs, the sudden guests who never fail to give you a mini heart attack. The baoli is their home now, which makes it all the more difficult to access parts of the baoli. Apart from the security guard glaring daggers at you that is. 

However, though the security personnel was least interested in our ventures, the locals hanging out there told us a lot about the conservation of the site and how deep the baoli actually went. This was followed by children sharing anecdotes of how they jump into the baoli in hot summers of Delhi (please do not try this at home). Though scary, it did give a relief that locals had some knowledge about the baoli but they couldn't really use it in any way. Sure the way the local community engaged with the baoli had changed considerably, but the hope was still there in us. Maybe all was not lost. 

The site visit made us reflect on a lot of things. There is a strong need for a follow up by the organisation which has restored the site to ensure that proper steps be taken. A colloborative effort between the ASI and DDA would really work wonders in not just ensuring the preservation of the site but also of the surrounding environment. Adaptive reuse can be one of the sustainable ways to ensure that baoli is in constant use and no harm comes to it due to vandalism and garbage dumping. This point is all the more crucial considering that we Delhi people are officially going to be out of water soon. The baoli has a lot of potential for tourism and this can be a great way ensuring community participation as well. Thus, a need to preserve the social aspect of the baoli also assumes importance. The Baoli, though a protected monument, is still slowly dying away. It is us, the people, who can actually extend a helping hand to it and save it. Maybe saving this baoli might also be one step more towards saving the environment and eventually our lives.